The Class E Network

  • Did the window have to be a certain size? The win:vent looks like 6:1, is there a reason for this in botanical environments?

    No specific reason. It was one of the biggest windows I had which translates to the largest screened opening available when opened. Locating a big screened area, as close to the top as possible, was the intent for passive convection venting. Venting a greenhouse in the heat of the summer is a big deal.

    I have an vinyl window that I was going to side mount but they have built-in springs to assist with lifting the bottom pane, in a vertical mount. In a side mount that made it nearly impossible to shut. The all aluminum framed storm window was a better choice for side mounting. With the latches facing the outside, it's easy to open and shut. Also, given the humidity in a typical greenhouse, aluminum is a good choice.

    Also, is there a trick to bending that cage overhead?

    The bow is natural. Since the panels are a fixed dimension, we did a few tests to determine width versus the height needed for a standard door. (It's easy to do - drive 4 stakes in the ground at varying widths.) Those measurements determined the width of the greenhouse and, since we wanted a usable width, the additional height needed from the wood walls.

    With the walls built, I cut 2X6 sections, 1 foot long with a 3/8" wide slot x that is 1 1/2"inch deep, for the panel ends to rest in. We walked the panel ends up and dropped them in the slots. (3/8ths is the width of the cross section of the welded wire in my panels.) Once in place, they were clamped into the sides with longer 2x6 sections (no slot) with a 3/8" thick shim at the bottom, using C clamps and 3" deck screws. The panels became more ridge as they were now clamped firmly to the sides. That created the shape of the arc. We joined each of the panels, to each other, with heavy black UV resistant tie-wraps at each cross junction. (I'll probably replace the tie-wraps each time it's re-skinned.) At the ends of the tunnel, I put upward pressure on the 2x4 framing on the end cattle panels making the overall structure much more ridge at the ends. That translates to more rigidity through out. While the structure will flex somewhat, in buffeting winds, I believe the plastic would blow out before there's structure damage.

    If you're interested, I can supply you with a few more details to build a similar item.

    I'm certainly glad we have it. At our altitude, it's actually snowing right now. :)

  • Venting a greenhouse in the heat of the summer is a big deal.

    Pretty much impossible. Attach a chain link top rail on each side, add a hand crank and roll the sides up in summer. Better yet, take the plastic off and save it for next season. Tie a tarp over the top to shade young starts from the scorching heat.

    Simple and sure backup and restore: In a Scheduled Job: rsync -av --delete /srv/dev-disk-by-label-SOURCE/ /srv/dev-disk-by-label-DESTINATION/ (HT: Getting Started with OMV5)
    OMV 5 (current) - Hardware: Thinkserver TS140, Nextcloud, Plex, Airsonic, Navidrome, Ubooquity, Digikam, & Heimdall - NanoPi M4 (v.1), backup - Odroid XU4, Pi-Hole (DietPi) - Testing/Playing: hc2, xu4, Pi 3B+, Odroid H2. Mac user trying to convert to Linux on a HP dx2400, Debian 10 XFCE.

  • Pretty much impossible.

    At our altitude, we're 7 to 15 degrees cooler, on average, than locations at sea level and we get real breezes and wind almost year round. I'll have to see what the temps are, in July. Poly shade cloth is a possibility, and the door end has square areas where more active ventilation can be retrofitted.

    Mostly, it's planned as a seed starter and off season growing. Otherwise plants will be in the garden.

    **Edit** Today, we have a minor snow accumulation and a forecasted high of 41 F. There will be another hard freeze tonight.

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