Check this out -Jetway NF9W-2930. Jetway produce a lot of industrial motherboards that could fit what you require (they aren't super expensive like a lot of the server boards from ASRock, SuperMicro etc.).
Tried the card in another slot? Cleared the motherboard CMOS and set it back?
From experience, most if not all PC/motherboard won't POST without a GPU - that's why server boards have a discrete onboard GPU, usually with just VGA.
Is it on a static IP? If not when you rebooted it may have changed IP...
PowerWalker VI 650VA IEC 360W UPS is what I use, it holds 2 HP Microservers (in my sig) and a QNAP NAS for over an hour or longer. It appears to work with NUT, but doesn't(it is on the hardware compatibility list). I use it as I have had the odd power cut where the breaker trips in the box, which is fabulous when I am not in. Its been running over 18months now and been pretty good.
I have (had) a more expensive one to support my main PC (FSP 2Kw) and that failed totally after 15months, tripped main circuit breaker in the house out.
The PowerWalker was so cheap I bought another to stick my ISP router on as a power cut knocks the router out totally and I found the time for the DSL to sync back in ranged from 15 minutes to two days in one case.
Thankfully power outages are not common where I live, but for me common enough to require a UPS.
It is worth trying another power supply if you have one to hand. I have had quite a few power supplies not work, but work fine with a tester - plug them into the board and they don't work at all. Another thing to try is a separate video card, just to rule out a graphics issue.
Troubleshooting 101 on hardware:
Take motherboard out of case and place it on its cardboard box.
Reseat the processor and heatsink and fan
Connect only the monitor, power supply and one stick of RAM - check the manual for single RAM slot position.
When all is connected and seated correctly, power up the board by shorting the 2 power button pins (steady hand) on the motherboard with a flat screwdriver.
If all goes well you should get POST and the monitor comes on.
If it fires up, no POST and no monitor, triple check the connections and reseat everything again and try again - be patient, some motherboards do take a minute to initially fire up.
If no post, swap the RAM out, try another slot - RAM is one of the biggest causes of no post.
If still no POST, try without ram to see if fans spin.
Lost due to Windows Operating system, and most of the time due too hard ware failure, usually a hard drive... I have not bothered with RAID for a long time now.
This is how I would do it:
One small SATA SSD or DOM for the operating system - small = 8Gb t0 20Gb, any larger is overkill, any smaller limits your add-ons.
2 hard drives same type and size.
Have 1 drive as the main NAS drive, use the other drive to back the other drive up.
Run the drives in RAID1, but have a 3rd drive formatted in EXT if is large (don't use NTFS on a mobile drive), usb or eSATA(eSATA a lot better) and back up to that too.
I back up manually, again from my past experience, when I back up manually, I know it is done. When I have relied on RAID1 or some other back up software, it has either not worked properly or I have lost data. As you see I have two OMV servers in my signature. I also have more NAS servers from Netgear/QNAP/Zyxel and Synology that I back up to. These are old and insecure, but work for offline back ups. I also back up to two large external eSATA and USB 3 drive racks for added comfort. This to me is how important data integrity is - I have lost too much in the past.
I digress - RSYNC is a useful addon for synching folders (ie making backups). Its ok, but didn't always work for, and can be very slow on initial startup.
Best RAID is RAID1 as one drive is mirrored to the other drive (always use the same size drives, but from experience use the same brand, speed, size and model). That means data integrity if one drive goes south. Mirroring occurs in the background, and this leads to its disadvantage which is speed - slow - and is why I don't use it preferring manually backing up across multiple NAS and external hard drives (lost far too much data in the past). RAID0 is for performance, but lose one drive and your whole setup is lost.
My bad I somehow saw the incorrect item. Yes that adapter has room for 1 x 3.5" drive and two 2.5" drives. Still wouldn't use 2.5" drives in a NAS, only for the operating system..
I disagree.. My hobby is re purposing old PC's into something usable that works (not some useless sculpture or coffee table). Very viable PC setup there that can easily be re purposed in to a NAS. Ditch the WIFI and the video card as the WiFi is not necessary unless (ill go into that later).. and the board has onboard video - you don't need a video card after initial setup as you access it through a web GUI (web page). It may draw a bit more power than an off the shelf NAS, but that can be circumvented with power saving options on the CPU and hard drives. Your limitation 'may' be on the SATA ports with the hard drive size, which I guess you require lots of space for HD or 4K video clips - older boards tend to have BIOS limitations on the hard drive size, usually 4Tb is the maximum. As for speed, you won't notice it with the hard drives as the network is ALWAYS the bottleneck when transferring data 1-10Mbps is slow, 50+Mbps is fast and anywhere in between is adequate for home use (data centres use SAS drives on a RAID setup and usually with a fibre connection and still get a bottleneck at the point of entering the telephone infrastructure but that's another story).
Now onto the WIFI - certain WIFI cards can be used as an access point (ie they have 'master' built into their firmware). This means that you can use WIFI as an access point, so if you have a WiFi dead spot in the house you can use the NAS as an access point for the home network. Unfortunately OMV cannot do this yet, but Ubuntu Server can.
With the OMV NAS in my signatures I can stream HD video to my TV (full HD) and 3D video too.
My personal approach for a home NAS is no RAID (but that's me)... Minimum 2 drives for RAID and better off identical too (same size, speed and brand if possible). The adapter supports 1 x 3.5" or 2x 2.5" so that would give you at least two drives that you could RAID (wouldn't use 2.5" drives in a NAS unless the operating system is on it - you can get 2.5" NAS drives (WD RED) but they don't take the usage a 3.5" drive can take). You could than get a small SSD or DOM and hang it off a SATA port, tape it up with insulating tape so it doesn't cause any issues (no bare metal) and leave it hanging over the PCI/PCI-e ports. The SSD's I am using in my NAS setups are 2nd hand off EBAY, 1 has been running for over 3 years solid the other is slightly younger, but I don't know the hammer they got from the previous user(s). Also from experience, I avoid using standard hard drives in a NAS. Moved over to NAS specific hard drives (WD Red, Seagate Ironwolf, Hitachi Deskstar NAS) and did my home work on what was reliable - avoid 3TB's and used 2TB's or 4TB's. 5TB drive gave me no ends of trouble for some reason formatting was an issue. 6TB WD Red I got second hand is still going now... Hope this helps...
There is room for two hard drives maximum in the 8300 case, if you remove the optical drive (it may fit another two over the PCI-e/PCI slots with a bit of modding). So if you want to use the case, it would be OMV on pendrive (which is not great - personally wouldn't do that as the USB pen drives life is generally shortened - there is an add-on that lengthens the life of the drive) and two drives in RAID, again my preference would be hardware RAID every time over software RAID, and preferably no RAID at all (lost too much with degraded RAID partitions or a hard drive failure) so I tend to run two drives or two NAS which are backed up with each other and backed up to external storage. The alternative that has worked for me in the past is a PCI or PCI-e eSATA card that supports NVQ and external hard drive enclosure that supports RAID (not a cheap solution, but works).
A better solution than a USB drive is a cheap, and you can get them cheap from EBAY, Disk on Module (DOM). They use these for industrial setups (ie to run CNC machines) or in thin clients to run windows CE and can get them in SATA, IDE (40 and 44pin) and USB using the internal motherboard pin header. Bare minimum OMV install 4Gb, start adding add-ons and look at 8Gb, media serving (ie using the PLEX media add-on) use 16Gb. Hope this gives you some ideas...
Yes you can and its supports port multiplier.. I have used it for this and it certainly worked for me. Before installing OMV, ensure you enter the BIOS and set the drives to AHCI.
Okay update 23/11/2017:
finally tested the UPS, removed mains and it kept both servers up and running. However it did not start shutting the attached OMV NAS down as it should have done..
Any ideas anyone?
How do I know my PowerWalker VI 650 UPS is working (monitoring and shutting down) without taking the mains power off?
Output of upsdrvctrl start:Quote
root@openmediavault:~# upsdrvctl start
Network UPS Tools - UPS driver controller 2.7.2
Network UPS Tools - Generic HID driver 0.38 (2.7.2)
USB communication driver 0.32
Duplicate driver instance detected! Terminating other driver!
Using subdriver: Liebert HID 0.3
driver = usbhid-ups
port = auto
pollinterval = 10
desc = "Powerwalker UPS"
output of upsmon.confQuote
MONITOR ups@localhost 1 monmaster 4204abeb4098fd935d745459006f1fbe master
SHUTDOWNCMD "/sbin/shutdown -h +0"
NOTIFYFLAG ONLINE SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG ONBATT SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG LOWBATT SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG COMMOK SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG COMMBAD SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG SHUTDOWN SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG REPLBATT SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG NOCOMM SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
NOTIFYFLAG FSD SYSLOG+WALL+EXEC
Output of upsc upsQuote
Init SSL without certificate database
Error: Unknown UPS
In the web interface SYSLOG it shows:Quote
upsmon : Poll UPS [ups@localhost]failed - [ups] does not exist on server localhost
This is happening on each poll, which makes me uncertain the UPS is being monitored correctly...
Network would be quicker and easier. No USB 3.0 and it is slow. USB 3.0 can also drop out for various reasons, where as network wont. ( I am backing up one of my OMV servers to an external drive and like an idiot I thought I would try it through windows 10, so it is crawling along - I am using eSATA and the slow speed is down to the motherboard eSATA which is limited to SATA II. I tried it with USB 3.0 and every time it got to 85Gb transferred, the USB drive dropped out. eSATA is consistent and what I should have done is connected to OMV via eSATA and mounted the drive copying that way.. Anyway I digress..) What you could do is set the Mac mini or OMV Pi as a DHCP server and directly connect the two with LAN and transfer that way. It should speed things up as no router or other network traffic to get in the way..
Why? How should SMART attributes differ then (only 199 could increase if the HDD is pulled out of the enclosure and cable/contact problems are introduced).
If you have a backup you shouldn't be worried, if you have no backup you're at danger. SMART doesn't change here anything.
Wrt meaning of this attribute in general: https://arstechnica.com/civis/…533d68fa129e6f2#p22062211 (for whatever reasons you censored your screenshot covering the relevant row so how could anyone tell you what's going on?)
Reason I say that test it on another machine is I have a 4Tb WD green flag up a SMART issue on OMV. Tested it in windows (bloourgh) with Crystal DIsk and Ubuntu and it passed all SMART tests no failures, all parameters good (eSATA enclosure, same eSATA cable). If it is a USB enclosure it is worth trying, I can understand if it is attached internally. On external devices a voltage drop/spike can cause all sorts of issues..
Try unmounting it, and testing it with SMART on another machine. I avoid using USB drives in OMV that are continually attached and running as I have experienced disconnect issues (even more so with USB 3.0). I tend to use eSATA as it is more reliable, but as you are using a Pi, I guess you are stuck with USB.(sorry, I digress) What brand and make of drive is it ? If it is self built enclosure were you have added the drive and it is a Western Digital Green, I would expect to see this.