Posts by olduser

    2 months ago I learned Docker and nothing made Docker more understandable than using docker from the shell. Portainer hide away far too much and compose, while nice, changed too much syntax to match/meet YAML rationality.

    With the above said, the first tutorial I used was macom's compose tutorial from which I switched to the official docs. I couldn't imagine starting with Portainer... that would be frustrating (to learn, it always seem better to go down rather than up).

    I'm not trying to step on toes here, but for the top piece, why not recess the button bindings all the way around the bottom and remove the need for supports? Or, print the entire thing as 1 piece and create a rectangular button lid allowing the drives to be entered in a swapping fashion from the side , the finger hole to pull the lid could also be used as intake/outake. You could also replace the button bindings with ribbed bindings, this would allow thicker layer heights with reliable dimensions.


    I think it might be worth mentioning to not print this with PLA. PETG seems like the cheapest and safest material to use to negate future climatic deformation. PLA is great for lightweight functional parts, but so long as you plan to replace them (and dehydrating PLA won't help this). Also, for that exact printer, it might be worth measuring the X and Y axis as the layers appear to be shifted (and possible under extrusion). Or if cosmetics isn't a concern, bump the extrusion width up a bit and double the layer height (the quick and dirty guarantee).

    Also worth a look in Mini ITX is the…3558D4I-4L#Specifications

    There is a concern about how many drive ports are actually available though. See this review:…GX8SFKATQ#customerReviews

    Here's another review stating the same, it seems like a bad reference board for NAS...…ore-16w/p/N82E16813140014

    Also the manual supports both reviews in regards to this aspect. That board might be the most deceptive board on ASROCK's website. I understand the limitations but, when you see 2 mini SAS HD ports you can see some kind of allurement that's really a gotcha.

    Aluminum to bend up? I don't get it. I gave you my complete parts list. You need a PC case with fans to hold the drives and power supply and the data interconnect cables.

    What you are going to come up with lacks any consideration for drive cooling and will leak a lot of RF in and out.

    I am taking your suggestions on EVERYTHING BUT the case... surely you can understand I want to tinker a bit myself :-) BTW, if I didn't already have a NAS of any type, I would undoubtedly buy that so that link is still good to pass forward and I still might buy it (but $200 for just a drive enclosure, I have to at least attempt DIY first). Honestly, thank you!

    What is this "SATA 4-in-1 cable" you mention?

    Perhaps you are missing the point that all the cables, LSI cards, and bulkhead feedthru card that I used are both SAS and SATA compatible.

    I think I bookmarked the 4-in-1 SATA cable at home, but it seemed horrible as it literally looked like someone just put mesh around 4 SATA cables and molded up proprietary headers (they came in vertical and horizontal orientation)... I really want no part of it.

    Perhaps I am missing the point that you're doing that if it's not for connection and power stability. I'm not a server person so there is vasts, vasts amounts I don't know, but when I see that the cost is cheaper, connections are more reliable and the user/help base is largely revolving around just a few reference vendors... it kind of all seems like a win/win.

    Anyways, I'm off to make my life hell and buy some aluminum to bend up, I'll take pictures of all my failures.

    ...don't ever buy a used SAS drive.

    My server used to be in the Lian Li PC-D8000 case..

    Funny, I thought the only storage medium I've bought used in 25 years was floppies for old PBX style systems, and the first image that loaded for the D8000 looked like an old PBX... a moment of irony for me :-)

    But yeh, I'm not buying SAS new or used for this exact thing. Now the power distribution is why I'm on the fence about the backplane. On one hand I don't want it, but on the other the wire mess (of course I won't have 32 drives to support the directory for the Eastern region :-P).

    But damn, I just wanted to bend up some aluminum in a DIY fashion and say HA! $50 bucks!!... but that's rrrrrrreally not looking plausible.

    It shouldn't make a difference whether you use SATA or SAS. The price of SAS drives will be much higher though.

    Actually this is for SATA drives. Granted, I could be approaching this all wrong, but it appears that *IF* someone is willing to buy used, then the price of all this is much, much cheaper using SAS components than SATA, at least for adding more than 4 drives (adding just 4 drives then maybe not).

    I bought one of these for $20 USD, it works flashed fine... Lsi-Sas-9200-16e-Host-Bus-Adapter

    The SATA 4-in-1 cables (that I can't find the link for right now) were $20 a piece, shipping wasn't free, I couldn't find them used and their length was only 20 inches max, not to mention I'd need 2 of them pushing the price to a realistic $50. However, if one is willing to buy used (I am), I can find 2 SAS cables for less than $15 shipped. Now, the breakout cables are still needed, but at that point those would always be needed (unless you used a REALLY long SATA cable and connected board to board).

    Why SAS drives?

    Honestly, cable management for a secondary box.

    My OMV server is in a Silverstone DS380 case

    When I added the eighth and final drive to it I began planning for a seperate DAS box to accommodate more drives in the future.

    I added an LSI 9200-8E SAS card to ....

    Right, right right right. You're at where I'm trying to get to, but when it came to adding the 2nd box, did you feel it was too much space for just drives? That's what's hindering me on the 2nd box... the feeling of too much space for just drives. However, I might have to go that route just to fit a PSU as I'm having a surprisingly hard DIY time finding a lower power PSU without factoring in buck converter none sense for the 5v.

    Looking for suggestions for an enclosure that can contain 4 or 8 drives with a PSU and SAS header. I can't find one that is just that and nothing else. I'm on the fence in regards to backplanes as I don't plan on swapping out home NAS drives often.

    For the structure itself and apart from bending aluminum, I see 5.25" drive cages that can hold up to 5 @ 3.5" drives. Outside of these, I haven't found any type of enclosure that can be cut up to meet these needs (at least not affordable options).

    The SAS header/adapter seems to be a problem as I can't find gender adapters, ie. female to female. Well, there is this but it has a PCB Linkreal 2 Port SFF 8088 to Internal SFF 8087 Transfer Card sff 8087 to sff 8088

    Any suggestions welcomed.

    If a power supply has 2.5a in standby at 12V, why would it need that much on 12V? I thought 3.3v at like ~0.3a was for standby, but now I'm curious as 2.5a seems like a lot, especially on the 12v.

    With OMV, if I put X sata drives in a box, would such a psu stay in standby if only 1 drive was active and say 7 are sleeping? The main reason I'm asking is that some of these psu's can be pretty loud... but in standby...

    Also, can SSD's get their 5v from the 12v bucked? I know an ATX gives 5v across the 5v obviously, but I've never tested an SSD to see if it can use the 12v if 5v isn't present.

    I'm sure whatever you're using is fine, but make sure that whatever you use keeps/gives proper permissions. I've never worried about this as what I've used is for Arduino, but I did notice that by default on a proper desktop, all files uploaded belong to which ever user the webserver was (logically).

    It's rare, but some countries (ie. India) have text encodings that can be unexpectedly tricky, which normally isn't a problem, but since this text could be a filename... something to think about at least.

    Lastly, always make sure that you don't already have URL support for sftp:// (I'd even take FTP over any HTTP).

    What's the make/model of that? Does the mobo have a PCIe header?

    I'm interested in something like that to gut and put 4 hdds plus a small PSU in it. With a little love from a rotary tool, it looks like it would be a great enclosure.

    Looks nice though, cool little box. Although with just 2 drives, I'm not sure flashing the board would be anything but a lesson of utilities.

    I'll probably be flamed for this but, I think Nextcloud is sort of shitty :-/. I haven't stated that before because it appears to be extremely popular (especially here), but in no way was I feeling it was useful when I used it.

    Keep in mind that I haven't "stepped up" and created something myself, so looking at the gift horse and all, but....

    1. If you want to transfer actual files, is sending data via some HTTP POST'ish scheme a viable solution or just a convenient option?

    2. Does the ability to run plugins with it make it better or is that just some bootstrap method that can be accomplished many other ways?

    3. With the presented options, is multiple users really a good idea or just an after thought adding needless complexity?

    4. Why run a separate aggregating DB layer on top of files that should be already known?

    I dunno. I see a whole lot of people mentioning Nextcloud, but I don't see a whole lot of people mentioning what Nextcloud does better. I'm really not trying to be a pessimist, but for me there seems to be better ways at doing everything it does. Somewhere else I read people liking the Drag & Drop functionality, however at that point I wonder why not create a small dedicated webpage for doing just that and side step 99% of the Nextcloud's overhead.

    There's the old idea of "Do 1 thing and do it well", but for me Nextcloud doesn't have 1 thing to boot... :-(. I set my modem, to my NAS static IP. OMV is still set to dynamic

    Hard reset the thing with a little pin and use cabling (not wifi). If that doesn't work, contact your ISP.

    At first I found your usage of "set my modem" odd, but I see that modem is one of those All-in-One's, so you could possibly be hard setting your modem (I guess). However, unless you've been told specifically by your ISP to hard set an ip/mac on the modem... don't. After you reset, if you even remotely think it's a modem related option, don't touch it.

    First, the 2 people helping you now are far, far more "in" with Docker than me.

    If I decide to start "fresh" with OMV5 can I point portainer at the containers folder on the HDD and just rebuild the image?

    is there anyway to keep the data tied to the images or will I have to start from complete scratch with all my dockers?

    I don't use portainer, but yes, as I understand it, Portainer just connects to the local daemon. Also it *might* be helpful to purge all images and re-pull them.

    If you pull the same images and build the same containers, you can cp all the data overwriting the newer data. Be careful though and make a backup of the original and newly created files, as some of the older or newer files may have path dependencies (although you'd typically know which files you've personally modified and want to cp).

    I'm not a professional user by any means or using OMV for "work", but any containers I want to keep _AND_ which require modification to the config files, I put those in a little script. For instance, the only container I now care about is "Gitea". For that, I have to make sure in my little script that each variable is set correctly, that I copy keys and that the DB is backed up. I've mentioned this because it might be just as helpful to know where and how to control your data as it is to just have docker simply working again, and if you write your own little script, you'll have somewhat of a better idea.

    Lastly, I'm not sure why you would ever want to multiplex system files (Docker itself) with user data (containers/shares/whatever). So, I'll 3rd the suggestion of keeping those spaces separate. Seems a bit like setting home to /usr/local or something else estranged (although technically not infeasible).

    These are "Free" utilities.

    "Ruler" - hashes as big as your screen and can be calibrated (although out of the box it's dead on)

    "Color Grab" - Will grab just about any color and associate a "name", but it is VERY good at white calibration (why I use it).

    "Graph 89 Free" - Will use the most popular Ti ROMs (not included), but it has a logging feature which most free (all?) don't.

    "SoundHound" - Identifies music. The later versions are a little spy'ish, but it's still faster at identity than the competition (I've tried them all).

    "ConvertPad" - Converts units and can convert currency to a reasonable value (handy to have if you DON'T have the internet).

    "PPSSPP - "Emulates" Sony PSP ROMs using Vulcan. Graphically on mobile, it's hard to beat with all the upscaling features (but games are old).

    I've seen the yellow banner at the top asking me to apply changes, but I'm not sure what I've changed. Maybe somewhere there is a text view of the command queue which is about to be ran (when you click apply), but I haven't seen it. I'd like to have those commands right in my face every time.

    But I do think OMV is amazing. Without playing a fluffer, I know nothing magically appears, so thanks to all who've taken some time out of their life to create it.

    I ran a recovery diskette for years because it could automatically add all drives to NFS, that was fancy back then. As a plus, it also had an unusable x.500 client.

    I've never been a "computer" person, and for that fact I like that OMV is Debian based as help is plentiful, almost too plentiful. I'm starting to stay away from its GUI though, bad things can happen in there.

    I don't know how to close or withdraw this post.

    Apparently blacklisting all devices behind a hub cannot be done in a straightforward manner. So it's either each:device:u,... or compile with CONFIG_USB_UAS=n, so currently it seems best to stick with each and every device (it's a pita though).