The Class E Network

On OMV with unbound and Pi-hole is a Docker:

The custom port 5353 was the issue. If the port is changed to OMVIP#53 in the pi-hole Docker, and in the unbound conf file, all is well. OMV updates as it should.

In your case, it solved the problem (for you) at the start. I was kind of still mulling that over. As noted before, people who shouldn't, do. (I've been in PM's on this topic, two of which were extended. Users, errors, oversights, etc.)

But, thinking about it, there are those who have already installed it, to consider. They need to know about the custom port issue, so I'll put it back.

Zitat von geaves

As seen before you can put up any how-to or documentation and some will still make errors,

Yeah but realize I've heard more in the back channels, RE unbound, than I've heard regarding the user guide that's almost 80 pages long. There must be something that's extra "befuddling" about unbound. (It's probably the lack of granular detail.)
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I'm thinking about doing "Addendums" for the user guide, as a sort of modular add-on approach. The first would probably be basic permissions for share folders / network shares with a second for UnionFS + SNAPRAID. Something is needed to be draw users away from mdadm RAID, that will also work over USB.

Maybe I'll do the UnionFS+SNAPRAID first. Thinking about it along with RAID and it's USB issues, it may more important that a permissions piece.
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Last night, I went through the hassle of replicating my Router's DHCP scope, copying static leases, etc., into Pi-hole. For some reason, Pi-hole's DHCP server is not compatible with the IP phones. I'm back on the router.

After reading this -> piece (with a cup of coffee of course) an UPS seems like a real good idea, in the bottom line.

This was the passage I was referring to:
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If you run into this problems with flush/write barriers not correctly implemented you have to fear simple crashes as well as power losses since both can result in your whole filesystem being lost (there's a reason why this issue is mentioned at the top of the btrfs FAQ). Same problem applies to mdraid in general but that's another story.
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While I'm not saying it has never happened, I have yet to note a single OMV crash so that's not much of a risk. (I have to add a crash exception when using a crap SD-Card.)
But the power loss issue is easily mitigated with an UPS. Done.

I know what you mean about being a "run of mill" home user. There are times when I kick the notion of "too much information" around preferring, instead, to rely on shaman's garb and a chicken's foot to chase evil spirits away.

Zitat von geaves

I must have missed that memo

One must prepare for bad juju.

I'm at the old house and was without an internet connection.
(I disconnected internet, VIA a cable modem, a few months ago. I couldn't see paying the full fare for a couple days a month.)

Since my sister-in-law lives two houses up the road, with internet access she rarely uses, I threw a wireless router between her modem and PC, added a high power repeater/extender on the wifi side, and put it her window. (For line-of-site.)

On my end of the link, everything worked, until I closed the window... At that point, the signal wasn't much higher than noise.
For the most part, regular glass is reasonably (not perfectly) RF transparent up into the GHZ ranges, but shutting the window was like dropping in a 6db attenuator. (6db is a guess, consumer routers don't accurately measure RSL, but the effect was profound.)

This seemed baffling at first. I mean, I've used standard plexiglass and even a piece of a thick garbage bag with duct tape, on one occasion, as emergency feedhorn windows. (One must overcome in difficult environs. ) In the the 7 to 8GHZ range, there was no measurable attenuation.

Then I thought about the "insulated" window concept. They make residential windows, these days, to reject the sun's heat. In a more specific term, radiant heat would be "infrared". This must be applied as some sort of optically transparent coating, that is infrared opaque. This coating must also have a substantial attenuating effect down into RF bands as well. That's the theory anyway.

So it was internet, with the window up, or no internet. Since it's still pretty cold here, these were not good choices. I gave thought to a yagi but opted for trying something ultra-cheap that could applied right now. I went to the dollar store for 2 each strainers ($2), and made ad-hoc parabola's out of them. (Running the client-bridge antenna's through them like feedhorns.) Apparently the gain increase is sufficient because the link is stable, with a decent SNR, with the window closed.

Here's what it looks like. It was quick and easy, and the gain easily offset the loss of the window. (It's in a closet so we don't have to look at it. Yeah, that "window" is in a closet. )

I think I'm going to buy a pair of yagi's. I can think of a couple uses, for reusing them here, after we sell this house.
With a clear line-of-sight, yagi's will connect two wireless routers, that are a mile apart (give or take).

Zitat von geaves

have you got your sieves on

I do! You can pick on it if you like - but stuff like that works in a pinch, particularly when nothing else is on hand or available.
While I don't have the equipment to run tests anymore (gone with retirement), I'm estimating the sifter gain increase to be around 2 to 2.5 db. But, I have a yagi to drop in. Even if only using one (yagi), on one side, I'm expecting a nice gain increase.

Zitat von geaves

what's home warranty is that the same as Building and Contents Insurance in the UK.

It depends on what they want to call it. Standard home owners insurance, as you know, if for catastrophic loss. (fire, storm damage, sink holes, etc.)

Unless I'm way off base:
What I "think" you're referring to is a kind of sales gimmick label. They call it "insurance" (it loosely fit's the definition) but, from a legal standpoint, it's more like a highly limited extended warranty for home appliances, the heating system, water heater, etc., etc. The idea is, you give them "X" dollars a month and they repair anything that goes wrong, subject that to their contract agreement - that is designed for the least possible outlay on their part (there's a lot of fine print in the conditions and exclusions).

I look at insurance, in general, as kind of like gambling - you're betting that something is going to go wrong and they're betting that all will be fine. For catastrophic life altering events, like a house being destroyed, insurance makes sense. But the thing to to note is, in all cases when it comes to gambling, the house always wins in the "averages". Insurance for failing appliances or a lost smart phone? That seems, to me, to be just living expenses. When looking at plans of this type, if one saves the monthly fee for the insurance, and repairs or replaces items as needed, money will be saved in the long term averages.

On the other hand, there are those who don't like a sudden outlay. Kind of like leasing versus buying, there are legitimate arguments on either side. It all boils down to preference.

Regarding the sifter antenna

Since I can't alter the sister-in-law's rental house (drill holes, etc.), after thinking it over I bought one (1) yagi. I was kind of surprise in that it didn't improve anything, even minimally, but yagi's should be used in pairs which is not an option on her end.
With the wireless setup being made up of (literally) stuff that was laying around, there were interesting obstacles to getting it all to work even marginally. I have a "G" router at the satellite modem, an "N" repeater and an "AC" router on my end (with the attenuating window). As it seems, the only encryption that would work with all 3 items was WPA2-AES.

After flashing the AC router, with DD-WRT, I was almost shocked at how clogged the 2.4GHZ band is, in the old neighborhood. Considering the spread between channels and the 20mhz bandwidth, a carrier on a specified channel gets into the next channel (upper and lower) and, to some degree, there's interference up to two channels away. The net effect is similar to that of raising the noise floor. So,, while there's maybe a bit of gain from the sifters, part of the benefit might be partially blocking roughly 180 degrees of interference as well.

Considering that I'm also shooting through an opening in neighbors tree, where leaves are being grow,, well, I'm giving up on it. It could be made to work but I can't see spending more on it, for 2 or 3 months. I can check weather reports and lookup building info., with a laptop, in the backyard. (Where there's no filtering glass and an open line of sight to the repeater.)